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At the Mac Wall: Try Again (5.10b) & Coexistence (5.10d), plus Turdland (5.9...

(Photo: Gail finishing up the traverse on the 5.8+ pitch one of Birdie Party.)I have been trying to get ready for my trip to Yosemite next week.I went to the new gym in NYC, the Cliffs of Long Island...

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A Week in Yosemite National Park

(Photo: Yosemite Valley as seen from the Tunnel View overlook, with El Capitan in the left foreground, Bridalveil Falls on the right, and Half Dome just peeking out from the clouds in the rear...

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More Fun in the Far Nears: Up Yours (5.7+), Wooly Clam Taco (5.10c), Outsider...

(Photo: Maryana following Up Yours (5.7+).)Do you ever have one of those low ambition Sundays?Last weekend I was climbing with Maryana for the first time in a while. We were talking about where to meet...

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Favorites in the Trapps: Ants' Line (5.9), Obstacle Delusion (5.9), CCK...

(Photo: Adrian leading Ants Line (5.9).)Here in the USA, May 17-18 was just another weekend. But in Canada it was part of a three-day holiday. Good weather plus the extra day off brought a Canadian...

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Memorial Day Weekend in the Nears: Yellow Ridge (5.7), Outer Space (5.8),...

(Photo: Gail entering the crux of Outer Space (5.8).)My wife and I planned for a nice Memorial Day weekend in the New Paltz area with the kids. Our friends Gail and Mitch were kind enough to host us at...

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Memorial Day Weekend in the Trapps: Thin Slabs (5.7 Start), Deep Lichen (P3...

(Photo: Mitch starting up City Streets (5.10b).)Memorial Day Monday was a hot one this year. We awoke to find sunny skies and temperatures expected to reach the mid-eighties.If only the New Paltz pool...

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Gunks Routes: Lost and Found (5.6), Unholy Wick (5.8), Diana (5.8) and More!

(Photo: Doing the fun traverse above a roof on Lost and Found (5.6).)Another sunny Sunday in May, sure to be a crowded disaster in the Trapps. But I had a plan.I've been repeating myself a lot lately....

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Chapel Pond Blahs

(Photo: Climber on Drop, Fly or Die (5.11a).)I knew it would be wet.It had been a rainy week, with heavy thunderstorms on Friday, continuing into the evening. I almost called the whole thing off. But...

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Climbing at Millbrook: Realm of the Fifth Class Climber (5.9) and Old Route...

(Photo: Gail on the last pitch of Realm of the Fifth Class Climber (5.9).)I got up on Monday morning, looked in the mirror, and found bits of lichen in my ears. This could mean only one thing: I'd been...

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On-Sighting is Hard: Frustration Syndrome (5.10c), Precarious Perch (5.9+) &...

(Photo: Starting up the crux corner on Frustration Syndrome (5.10c).)Last Thursday the kids finished school for the year. To celebrate, we rented a house in the New Paltz area for the weekend. I...

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A New Route in the Trapps?!? Erogenous Zone (5.10 or 5.11 or something), plus...

(Photo: The view out from the ravens' haven at the belay stance in the cave, on Erogenous Zone.)I was excited to climb this past Saturday with Kathy, a new partner for me.She isn't really a "new...

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Better Redpoint than Deadpoint? P-38 (5.10b), Precarious Perch (5.9+) and Fun...

(Photo: Nani on Classic (5.7).)We are about to embark on the great sleepaway camp trek of 2014. My wife Robin and I are taking the kids to New Hampshire, dropping them off, and then we will take a...

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The Secret Gunks Tricam Society: A Major Motion Picture (Soundtrack by...

(Photo: Looking up at the big dihedral ascended by Horseman (5.5). Adrian is barely visible at the outside corner after the traverse.)The summer always seems to slip on by, doesn't it?For the last few...

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Back to Boulder: First Flatiron Direct East Face (5.6) and Two Eldo Classics

(Photo: The First, Second and Third Flatirons (from right to left), looming above Boulder.)Another summer vacation in Colorado meant another chance for me to do a little climbing. My family spent a...

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Doubling Down on Doubleissima (5.10b) & More!

(Photo: Climbers on High Exposure (5.6+), seen from where Doubleissima (5.10b) reaches the GT Ledge.)My first trip to the Red River Gorge is just a few weeks away.I've been trying to prepare. I'm...

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Gunks Routes: Star Action (5.10b), Still Crazy After All These Years...

(Photo: Headed for the roof of Son of Easy O (5.8).)Another September weekend in the Gunks. Temperatures have been falling and autumn is in the air. I think sending season may be soon upon us.I met up...

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Poke-O Moonshine Cliff: The FM (5.7+ R), Bloody Mary (5.9+) & More!

(Photo: Looking out on Poke-O Moonshine from the top of pitch two of Bloody Mary (5.9+). Photo by Adrian.)A few weeks ago (as you'll surely recall!) I took a random tumble at the base of the Trapps in...

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It's Raining Sends in the Red River Gorge

(Photo: Working on Primus Noctum (5.12a) at the Drive-By Crag. Photo by Adrian.)I just got back from four days in the Red River Gorge of Kentucky.It was my first visit to this Mecca of sport climbing,...

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Eighties Day in the Gunks: An Excellent Adventure

(Photo: Some stone age Romeo, sneaking up on Nosedive (5.10b) like a smooth criminal.)Several months ago Gail and I hatched a most bodacious idea: we would go to the Gunks dressed as climbers from the...

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Gunks Routes: Blistered Toe (5.7+/5.9+)/Torture Garden (5.8)/Yellow Crack...

(Photo: That's me on the traverse from Blistered Toe over to Torture Garden.)I'm feeling good lately. Have I mentioned that I've lost some weight? It makes a big difference.In the gym I can really...

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